Positano & Lemons

This past weekend I took a road trip to amazing Positano! Positano is about 6 hours South from Siena towards Rome and Naples. As I am driving on the A1 highway, I am wondering why the hell I chose this road trip to be my first road trip....it is the furthest and most complicated. Well, I can say that I feel like a master driver now in Italy...6 hours in Blu (my Panda Fiat) on the highway and then along the windy, narrow cliff roads...I'm not quite sure how the tour buses passed me or any other cars on these roads. Each time I saw them coming, I had to stop, hold my breath and pray to God they didn't scratch my little Blu rental...and then on I went around the tight hair-pin curves. Now thinking back...I think my angel took over because I just jetted through like I knew what I was doing through these little seaside villages...I had no idea where I was going, but I just followed my instinct (I hate maps).

As I drive along the Almalfi Coast I am in awe...the whole time looking around and just saying "Oh my God, Oh my God." The houses...the entire town/village hang on the cliffs overlooking the Tirreno Sea. It was a bit warmer than Tuscany (normally this time of year it's much warmer, but like Siena, they are experiencing a late cold season). The water is a turquoise blue color and there are fruit stands along the way...the Lemons are GIGANTIC and about the size of a volleyball. I bought one and thought I could make Lemonade...a couple of gallons with the Lemon I bought!

I seriously could not believe this mystical sort of place. My main purpose for going to Positano was to visit a spa and when I realized just how far Positano was from Tuscany, I proposed to the spa that I also stay in the hotel. I arrived at the hotel and spa, Albergo le Sirenuse, late Friday afternoon...take a look through the website and you'll know why I am searching for words to describe this place. This is the most beautiful and quaint hotel...the gentlemen that helped me -- Giuseppe, Roberto, and Mauro, were all so helpful, professional and friendly. Mauro took me to my room with a view of the sea...as we walked through my room and he pointed out various things I just nodded my head in a friendly way, showing that I was very impressed and pleased with everything...but inside I was screaming "This is amazing...am I dreaming...have I died and gone to heaven...???" I seriously was giggly and giddy and couldn't wait until Mauro left just so I could laugh in delight at my staying in this amazing place. I had a hot tub in my bathroom and several spa products made especially for the hotel. The room, the view...everything was amazing. I have video and photos to show soon, but for now, you can see photos on the website at www.sirenuse.it

After getting settled, I walked around this quaint beachy town for a while. I noticed a very familiar, lovely smell...jasmine was in bloom and the blossoms of the lemon trees everywhere. This aroma is one of my favorite things about Santa Barbara and I loved having this memory of SB in Positano.

For the first time in Italy, I saw a LOT of things I wished I could buy, but...instead I just walked around and took photos and notes. It was Good Friday, so the churches in town lit small candles which lined the little streets. Then I heard chanting...prayer chanting and around the corner discovered a group of Catholics/Christians walking through the streets saying a prayer...the sound of their (about 20 people) prayer chanting echoed through the narrow streets. I followed them for awhile, staying in the back...it was nearly dark, hearing them and following them gave me good vibes and chills.

That night I had dinner in the restaurant in the hotel...it was nice...and honestly I enjoyed this unique dining experience, but I was out of my comfort zone. It was a "table for one please".... the restaurant was so beautiful and my guess is that everyone dining there was paying the $600/night and I was most likely the only travel writer...on a budget. I had four waiters that replaced my napkin probably four times...anyway, the restaurant had warm, dim lighting with little white lights and lemon trees everywhere. I had a quiet spot behind a lemon tree with a great view of the chefs with white uniforms and hats working in the kitchen (there was a big window so that guests could watch them). I ordered first a prosecco (sparkling wine) and had a taste of the local bread with olive oil. For my meal, I had Ziti con Pomodorini melanzane e ricotta (cherry tomato, pasta, ricotta cheese). For dessert I had locally made lemon sorbet and then an espresso.

That night I took a lovely soak in my "hot tub" in the room...which made up for allllll of those showers with Tonto! Then I drifted off and fell asleep with the balcony doors open so that I could hear the waves crash when I fell asleep and again when I woke up.

The next morning I had a one hour massage at the hotel Spa with a massage therapist named Stefano -- a light-tanned, late 30-something Italian with short curly blonde hair. First let me say that I have had many massages...all good...many wonderful...but...this massage was the best massage I have ever experienced. (the 4-handed lomi lomi in Kaui comes close though:). My treatment started with an "aroma journey"...this is when I get to choose my scent for the massage oil. This may sound familiar...the spa uses Aveda products and the aroma journey is an Aveda concept. Based on the aroma I chose, Stefano said my "air element" was not balanced which meant that "I had too much input in my brain and I had too many things on my mind"....hmmmm...ya, think? This made complete sense of course. Stefano also said not being balanced with this element would make my skin dry. Moving along...well...this story will be so much easier (and more fun) to tell you in person...but let me say in short, Stefano was so intuitive with my aches and tension...he massaged, stretched my limbs and even cracked my back and neck. Before he started the massage, he explained what he would be doing which was good because when he massaged my back, he actually climbed on the bed, straddled over me and then proceded to manipulate my spine. Leg and hip stretches were also a surprise -- one at a time, he put my legs on his shoulder and stretched and massaged. Could this get any better?.... yes, indeed and in fact it did...he pour hot oil into my scalp and massaged my scalp and then actually brushed my hair!....okay, this is when I really thought I was dreaming. This is when he also stretched my neck using a small towel as a way to rock my head back and forth. So much detail...but I can't go on and on. Stefano was extremely professional and I found out that he worked in physical therapy before which explained his wondrous technique.

After the massage I enjoyed the Bagno Turco (steam room) and sauna. Then I took a walk on the beach and a short hike through the hills. It was such a dreamy little trip, but it was also more expensive than I anticipated! I paid (approximately in dollars): $100 in fuel round trip, $50 in highway tolls, $50 on dinner...everything was so expensive -- $10 for an espresso, $10 for a bottled water and I only got a small dinner, $50 in tips for massage and hotel staff). At the same time, I got to review the best hotel (actual cost is about $500/night) I have ever seen and get a very healing and memorable massage (actual cost $150).

Oh...and one other thing...I spoke Italian most of the time in Positano! My Italian needs a lot of work, but there was something about being in this place where most of the tourists where Americans who didn't know any Italian...well, it made me more relaxed I guess to give it a try. I surprised my self by what I was saying and remembering! I decided it was time to leave Positano and as I walked back to the hotel, I smelled something baking...something lemony...I poked my head into a door off the walk way and met a nice baker named Carmene...I made an acquaintance and now when I go back to Positano, perhaps he can be my tour guide and I can practice my conversation Italian with him...his English is as good (or not-so-good) as my Italian, so I feel more relaxed in messing up!

Tomorrow I head to Chianciano Terme...another spa about 2 hours from Siena...can't wait!