mercoledì 28 febbraio 2007

My Italian Course

After the first week challenge of the Italian lessons, I am settling into private lessons with Sabrina (she is a lovely, flirty, 40-something Italian) and Mauro (kind, soft spoken, ex soccer player type) who is the director of the school. Both have a wonderful approach and philosophy on learning Italian.

Did I mention that I am learning Italian in Italian?...yes, this is "immersion" of course, but I really liked learning Italian in Santa Barbara with Elisa who taught Italian in English. I am ajusting though -- I was able to have a conversation this morning with Silvana about "the Count" and why I don't want to live there. So I think my Italian is shaping up. At this point I understand much of an Italian conversation if I hear it and I can write it pretty well, but the actually speaking takes time for me.

Yesterday for my lezione (lesson), Sabrina took me out and about and pointed out things and we just worked on vocabulary. It was fun and she had her arm looped in my arm the whole time -- too cute!

I met a Nobile Count!

Yesterday I really missed just getting in my car, driving to my destination with no challenges, getting what I need and then going home -- no fussing...and this works with my to-do list that I carry with me!

So, yesterday I was scheduled at 2:30 (and in my mind that means 2:30!) to look at an apartment to rent (I have to find an apartment because I am leaving the host family when my course ends in a few weeks).

A very nice woman from Florence who manages apartments in Siena picked me up and took me to see the place. First, the driving was insane (I'm grateful to be alive today), but it all seemed to flow with the traffic anyway. But then we got lost in the countryside of Tuscany (I enjoyed the view, but quickly got frantic about the time because I had to be back for school). Finally we arrived at Poggio Pini....this would be the four story mansion owned by Count (yes as in count dracula or sesame street purple count)...Count Fabio Devvechio (Noble family). Holy cow. The property was amazing and he was a very nice 78 year old fella who is in amazing shape and smokes a cigarette every few minutes. The villas for rent could rent for $1500 a month, but because it's low season he offered me $600 a month -- brand new, tuscan style, washer and dryer, bedroom, kitchen, internet, etc. It's about 15 minute walk to the bus and then 15 minutes to Siena.

As nice as it was, I did not feel at ease here. It seemed very lonely and cold. I did get to see the small chapel next to the mansion; a little creepy I must say. Charm was definitely missing and all I could concentrate on was a gigantic WHITE spider! It took forever to walk through the property because we were in conversation the WHOLE time...walk a few steps...stop and talk...walk two steps...stop and talk...I can see the car...I'm almost there...I'm looking at my watch and inside I'm screaming "I don't have time!"

Finally, we depart from "The Count"...everytime I say that I just want to giggle and Julia got a kick out of the whole story...and I made it back in time for class.

Cooking Class

Last night I took at cooking class which was organized through the school I am attending. This was really fun and gave me a chance to spend time with the other students. We started with prosecco, a drink which is enjoyed before dinner preparation. Prosecco is delicious!!! It tastes like sparkling apple juice and champagne and it's a little dry. Spumante on the other hand is similar, but more fruity (equally delicious).

Because the pasta was from scratch, we didn't end up eating until 10pm even though we started preparing at 7pm. It was well worth the wait. The pasta was gnocchi pasta; I think I rolled approximately 100 pieces of pasta. The dough has potatos, lots of flour, egg and nut meg -- everything that is so good for my figure. Each little cut of dough was pressed onto a fork and quickly rolled down the fork to make a print (kind of like the fork prints in peanut butter cookies). Knowing how to do this -- now that is art!

We cut and marinated artichokes in water and lemon and just ate them raw. The sauce for the pasta (sauce is called "salsa"), was pomodoro with fresh garlic and parsley. It all sounds simple, but each bite was delicious and very rich! And of course, we all drank vino.

I am getting to know the students better -- Annie from Chicago, Sid, Mike and Ben (from Nor Cal), Pat (the oldest in the group besides me -- he's a whopping 22), Julia (my housemate) who I have come to adore, the other Julia, Sweet Claire, Alice, Amy and Allona. All are under 20 and all are from the US except Alice from London.

All of us looked "so cute" in our cooking aprons and made quite a mess cooking, but we really enjoyed the experience. Sabrina, one of my teachers was the cooking instructor and she is so lovely! By the way...the whole cooking lesson was taught in Italian, but somehow when food is involved, I retain the information better. Buon Appetito.

Museums in Siena

Do I have to write about the museums???....This is how I kind of felt about visiting the museums. But how can I be in Siena and not go to a museum?? After a choppy conversation with Silvana about the museums ("molto molto molto!")....hmmmm three "moltos"...I guess I should go is what I thought at the time. Silvana's son is an art historian and teacher and has written many books on the museums in Siena also.

I visited Pinacoteca Nazionale di Siena. I am a fast "browser" let's say...so, I don't "study" the art so much unless it REALLY catches my eye (well, I pretend to study it, if one of the guards is watching me and I feel like I need to spend at least 30 seconds admiring it). Nevertheless, the first 30 minutes was enjoyable. Let me say this....ALL of the paintings are religious and they all look the same to me. HOWEVER, I did appreciate the amazing colors in the paintings -- deep, deep royal blues, golds (which I read suggests the idea of divine light), creamy ivory's. These paintings are hundreds of years old and that's interesting to think about and visualize the person who created it.

The other museum I visited is near the Duomo -- The OPA. It caught my attention a tad more because there were ancient artifacts too. Of course when I'm looking at a really old skull of a priest that lived hundreds of years ago, that's going to catch my attention. The antique bibles were really amazing too. The views from the top of the OPA were breathtaking (should I even tell you that since I don't have a single photo yet to show you?)

So there you have it, I visited a museo!

lunedì 26 febbraio 2007

Molto! Molto!

Dinner last night was a delicious adventure. Julia, my delightful translator was away to Firenze (Florence) for the day, so there we sat -- just me, Silvana and Paola. I managed to get a few sentences of conversation out about how I went to the museums, studied and shopped. Silvana, it seems, describes everything just about as "Molto! Molto" (a lot! a lot!) For example, regarding the museums... "Molto, molto Bellisimo" and the shopping "Molto, molto!"...I love her enthusiasm.

I ran out of things to say, so I just ate a little more salad...I figured if my mouth was full, I wouldn't need to talk. The salads by the way are so simple and delicious '-- just romaine lettuce with olive oil and salt. We also had bowtie pasta with garlic and pesto, some sort of rolled meat with cheese and tomatos with olive oil and salt.

After dinner I took my plate into the kitchen; the kitchen is so small! I imagined with the meals she has been cooking that the kitchen would be bigger, but it is little and so is the stove, sink, table and refrigerator.

Word of the day: la scarpetta = scraping last bit of sauce

Tonto was in my shower last night

So....I finally got a hot shower last night!...sort of...I thought I would give it a try, so I turned on the water and it was hot! But...I didn't know how long it would last. So, very quickly I undressed, hopped in the shower!...wash my hair!...wash my face!...the whole time the Lone Ranger and Tonto theme song was running through my head...da dun da da du dun da da... (don't know if that's how you spell the humming of it, but I will give credit to Nor Cal (that would be Mike)). (Nor Cal by the way calls me So Cal:)!!!!...coap up!...shave one leg!....oh no...the water is cold!...

So, I shivered one hairy leg out of the shower, but just happy I got a 3 minute shower.

domenica 25 febbraio 2007

Day trip to the Countryside!

This past Wednesday (And I do apologize for no photos yet!), me and the group of other students took a day trip to Montepulciano, a quaint, very old village. The trip there was about an hour and the scenery was....well, you guessed it...breathtaking. Hills, fog, vineyards, old homes, narrow roads.

When we arrived we visited a Catholic church...so huge, so unbelievable, so drafty...
Then we went to the Azienda Agricola Contucci for wine tastng. Napa what? The wines were so flavorful. We took a tour through the winery and learned that the old stone building is built in arches to keep sound out because "noise disturbs wine." The wine comes from Sardenia and the bottles are stored o the side because wine has to touch the cork because 3-4% of corks are "sick" and side storage will tell whether or not the cork is suitable.

Drinking the wine made everyone a little more social and friendly. The Italian guy pouring the wine, talked really close to all of the women, but not in a creepy way, just a very sincere and friendly Italian way.

I loved Montepulciano -- the winery, the copper workshop, the bus ride getting to know everyone. I can't wait to see where we are going this week!

My favorite book!

A day before I left Santa Barbara, a friend recommended that I read "Eat, Pray, Love: one womans search for everything across Italy, India and Indonesia." So I got the book and didn't even start reading it until last Monday night.

Well, I can hardly put it down!!!! I love this book and the reason I mention it in my Tuscany blog is because I relate so much to the author Elizabeth Gilbert and her journeys in Italy. This book has seriously made me laugh and remind me that my feelings are normal.

Not to sound like a commercial, but this book is the next best thing to actually going to Italy. So far all my friends out there still in the US, read this book! You will love it...and maybe it will inspire you to take your own journey.

Cookies, Capuccino and Dreams

During studying or last week when I was the most stressed, I found a few temptations that helped me! First, I discovered a bakery, which is now my favorite -- Forno Delle Campane. I usually get one..or two...or three little cookies that are buttery and flakey and raspberry or apricot jam filled. Is your mouth watering yet...mine is...note to self: stop at the bakery on my walk home.

My other soother is a capuccino of course....so yummy and comforting. I found out though that it is not typical or the norm to order a capuccino after 1:00pm.

So cookies and capuccinos are good therapy right now, especially that first week because I was really crazy in culture shock and jetlag despite the fact I am in Tuscany. I was so worked up that I was having crazy dreams of beetles (bugs) and driving a vespa backward!...okay, for your information, a dream interpretation website basically said this means that I am emotional, not meeting my goals, and am anxiety stricken....geeeeee....ya think??? It's Sunday late afternoon now, exactly a week ago I got here...and I am feeling pretty alright.

First Week of Classes

My first week of classes has been overwhelming and quite a challenge. The school I attend, Saena Iulia, is about 5 minutes from where I live. The staff and teachers are so helpful, intelligent and nice. Sabrina, Elisa and Mauro are the teachers; Mauro is also the director of the school. Giorgia is the secretary and advisor to the students and the one I corresponded with before I got here. She speaks English, Italian and German perfectly and is in her late 20s I think.

If I were to speak honestly, I would say that the first week I was disappointed. Before coming here, I understood that a new class starts every Monday, when in fact, a new class starts at the beginning of every month. So...I came in two weeks late and at this point the groups is already studying verbs, past participles, etc. I also notice that the small group consists of 3 females and two males all under 20 years old. I was hoping that there would be a student in my group close to my age. They are all American, from Chicago, N. CA, Connecticut and Seattle. Nevertheless, the students are super funny, smart, lots of energy and they are characters.

By the 3rd day of classes (Wednesday) I am super hard on myself, overwhelmed, not understanding my homework or classes and I am not a happy camper. By this point I have cried 3 times at least. My poor brain, which has not been schooled for awhile is smoking and totally confused. In response to Come Stai (how are you), I have responded in Spanish (Muy Bien). Hilarious! I haven't spoken Spanish since I was a little kid and my brain is just reaching for anything familiar knowing that English is not allowed!

After discussion with the teachers, it is decided that I will take private lessons and those are taught by Mauro. He is an amazing teacher and always has insightful, helpful and even poetic words of advice for my learning. My new instuction (and a wonderful book which I will tell you about later) inspires me to do an Italian "word for the day" on my blog!

So....the word/s for today: Buon fine settimana (Have a good weekend)

Piazza del Campo, temperature

It was only 3:30 in the afternoon when I arrived in Siena. So after I got unpacked in my room, I decided to take a short tour. The Piazza del Campo is only 5 minutes walk from where I live. It is amazing and huge...when I first saw it...it's so big...I expanded my eyelids to see more, my mouth opens in awe and I take a deep breath in and whisper "wow" in my exhale. I quickly realize that I am standing there in this huge space, map in hand with my mouth open....yep, that's me...the American tourist.

It was sprinkling just a bit...and it was again today. Like everywhere in the world, I have heard that it has been an uncommonly warm winter. It's usually in the 50s and has gotten warm a few of the days. There is fog in the morning sometimes and that's beautiful sitting on the green hills and red and brown rooftops. Every morning the question "Che tempo fa?" (what's the weather)is answered when Silvana watches the weather while Julia and I eat a piece of toast, drink tea and quickly swig an espresso.

Dinner Time and attempt at conversation

Somehow I understand that "Dinner is at 8:00.".... La Chena e otto...I think...oh well, at least I understood.

So....dinner....okay, don't get too jealous, but it is really incredible and abundant! The first night I was hungry, but forgot about the whole first, second and third course here in this wonderful place called Italy! I ate a big bowl of tube pasta with pesto and garlic and olive oil and was stuffed! I noticed the first night of dinner at the table with Paola, Silvana and Julia, there is a picture of bleeding Jesus watching me the whole time I eat. Interesting...I am used to him now:)

Silvana has this characteristic of scooting/shuffling (vs walking) from the dining room to the kitchen. So I was stuffed from the pasta and red wine and then Silvana...scoot, scoot, scoot...comes back from the kitchen with the second course! Breaded chicken with olive oil and lemon...then veggies, then for dessert an apple or pear, but everyone peels it first.

Everything is so delicious everynight. We always have red wine and sparkling water, and so far we have had soups, every sort of pasta, casseroles (sort of like a stuffing), artichokes in olive oil, pearl onions in white wine, prosciutto with basil and olive oil, and always an apple or pear for dessert.

Another scene I wish I could recreate for you is dinner time conversation...or listening. Silvana and Paola excitedly talk fast and loud over one another and laugh and hand gesture even when they are not trying to explain something to me. Julia is a constant translator at this point! Once in awhile Silvana will give Paola an endearing/knock it off light slap on his shoulder or head. I can't help but crack a smile. And if that isn't funny enough, Paola reached for the wine and Silvana grabbed it from him. Then she scooted...shuffle, shuffle, shuffle...and he grabbed the bottle, poured and quickly indulged. I just laughed under my breath at their loving and sincere ways.

After an attempt at dinner conversation, every night I am left with the same conclusion, dinner was amazing, thank God for Julia's translation and I would never want Silvana on my team for charades. I do love the way she speaks with Paola and her simple, yet so delicious dinners are one of the things I look forward to every day.

Bathroom, longing for a shower

I share a bathroom with Julia and it's small, but a good, private space. I have to duck to go in...and know I did not grow a few inches...it's just little!

Oh ya...so the shower issue...well, there is a shower in the bathroom, but I have had bad luck with it. This past week, every morning, I have tried and the hot water does not come on. This issue has been discussed, then a switch was shown to me to turn the hot water on, but that has not helped either. I checked with Julia and we are both stumped. Then on Wednesday, everyone went to the market and I stayed behind to take what I thought was finally a hot shower. I turned on the shower....ahhhhh...it was hot...I couldn't wait. Just about to get it and all of a sudden water and all electricity went off. Of course everyone was at the market...so I put my robe back on...totally paturbed (is that a word?) at this point and stomped down the stairs to get dressed. The next day and the day after that, the water was not hot; one day I got about 2 minutes of hot. Okay, this is comical now. It's Sunday afternoon now and it is rainy and I am day dreaming of a hot bath....maybe I will get one when I visit the spas soon!

My Room

Silvana gives me a key to the house, which by the way looks like an old skeleton key and then shows me my room. My room is super cute and small and...well...very Italian I guess. The ceilings are very tall and there is a small crystal chandalier that hangs. Everything is teeny weenie...my bed, the desk and chair. Many things are antique -- the dresser, the chair and the pictures on the wall. My favorite picture is of Mary???; it is hanging above a sweet little red table with a white crocheted (sp?) cover.

I have a great window with shutters and it seems like I can reach my arm out and touch the next stone home -- that's how narrow the streets are. Again I see clothes hanging out windows and I look down and watch people walk by. Then...do I smell bread baking...or is that cookies...oh no -- I'm in trouble!

Charades and speaking Italian

How do you spell Charades? Is that right...oh I don't have the time to look it up. Did I mention I have not gotten my lap top from CA yet (reason for no photos yet on my blog) and I am sitting in a call center where I make my calls and use the internet. It is fairly affordable, but I am not going to look up Charades:)!

Where was I before the Charades tangent...oh ya...I am at the Ciampolini home. Silvana and Paola, the house "parents" are very excited to see me (I wish so much I could recreate this first meeting scene for you!) I quickly discover that they know English LESS than I know Italian and that is not saying much!!! Silvana uses charades and hand gestures to attempt to communicate which honestly makes it more confusing!

Ya know how your great aunt so and so will give you a nice big pinch on the cheek as sort of a term of endearment? Well, Silvana's version of that is a gentle (but still startling for the first time) slap on each of my cheeks at the same time. Did you get that? It was cute...funny...made me jump a bit. Luckily, there is another American housemate -- Julia and she is from Seattle. She is 20 and knows Italian well. Later on I get to know her....and she is a super sweet young lady who is a great translator!

Cure for Writer's Block

The scenery from Rome to Siena was beautiful. Just like a postcard....rolling green hills, often sprinkled with white dots...that would be sheep in the distance -- it looks so beautiful! And the houses....wow...they look like they actually grew out of the ground. The stone homes and hills they sit on are one...the houses bleed into the hills like roots...it is hard to explain, but so neat/cool/beautiful/unique. Just when I thought I was looking at an old abandoned home, an old woman walks out to hang clothes.

I keep noticing things here and there and keep grabbing for my journal and realize this bus ride is the best cure for writer's block! I arrive in Siena at Piazza di Grammsci. I take a taxi for only five minutes to Via de Stallereggi 44 -- my new home for a month. This stone home is owned by Ciampolini family. During the quick ride there...I'm still looking around...stone streets...I hate to say it, but just like "the movies" the streets are narrow and clothes are hanging out from windows and each little balcony has potted flowers and each door is wooden and huge....soo adorable.

Breathe time: Bus to Siena

I found my way to the train station which was to take me to the bus station. While waiting for the train, I met a very nice Italian woman named Cristina. Probably in her 50's, she was very kind and helpful. I now had ALL of my luggages -- two suitcases and a big bag and Cristina helped me carry them on the train. We visited for about 30 minutes to Tiburtina. During the ride, I could see the outskirts of Rome...actually kind of dirty....and old of course. Got to the bus station and Cristina wished me luck and gave me a quick peck on each cheek....cute...unexpected...

I got on the bus...actually a very nice, clean, comfortable bus. Now I was on my way to Siena and I had 3 hours to chill. I found myself sinking into my chair and letting my shoulders down. I took a deep breathe and realized I had been holding my breathe for the past two days!

Rome: The Last Hot Shower


I arrived in Rome late Saturday night. I took/found/made my way to a taxi to the hotel which was only about 10 minutes away. When I arrived at the hotel, a priest in all his garb greeted me at the door...okay, hmmm...sort of funny and strange at the same time -- "am I at the hotel or a church." Well, it was the hotel; I check in (my room key weighs about 5 pounds by the way) and I can relax for the night. My room is cute and quaint...everything is tiny/small -- the bed, the table, everything is teeny weenie. I took a shower and something told me that I should really enjoy the shower...take a long, hot shower...that was the last hot shower I had (and I am blogging a week later)....explanation later. Before I fall asleep, I have the random thought "I'm in Rome!"...and then I wake up at 2 am...ahhhh lovely jetlag.

So the next morning, the real challenge starts....getting to Tuscany which is about 3 hours away. I was very nervous about my upcoming day of travel, but my anxiety was eased a bit when I met a group of senior citizens from Indiana in the lobby! They were so relaxed and having such a good time...they wished me luck. From the hotel shuttle, to the airport to find the train to Tiburtina (bus station) and then on to Siena...I had just used all modes of transportation I think in the last 24 hours! I am on my way...

First thoughts on Travel and Italy



Would it be really cliche if I say "Ciao!"....well, there you have it, I made it to Italy and have been here for a week. I apologize that I have not blogged sooner, but I have just been jetlagged, overwhelmed and adjusting to my new surroundings. So here is my attempt to catch up so that you can get a glimpse into what I have experienced so far...

So my flight from LA to London was 10 hours...not so bad because it was a night flight and I sort of slept the whole time...and not so good because I sat in the middle seat. I met a very nice woman though -- Joanne from Santa Monica who shared her stories of African travels with me. I arrived in London at the Heathrow Airport and was less than delighted about a 4 hour layover. Heathrow is like a mall, so I did a bit of browsing and then to my surprise I discovered a spa in the airport! After being cramped up and carrying a heavy bag, a massage seemed like a necessity. The spa, Urban Retreat, was small, but cozy. As soon as I walked in, the noise and hustle and bustle from the airport atmosphere disappeared. I took a small tour (they use Murad and Jurlique!) and got a 30 minute massage by Trixy the massage therapist. I met Trixy (pictured on the right), Rene and Sam (left)-- all very sweet and very happy to get Jaqua samples:)! I had one more flight now...a 2 hour flight from London to Rome and then the real travel challenges start!