I ventured to Chianciano (pronounced kee-on-chee-ono) to visit one of the many Termes (natural thermal hot springs with healing waters). Chianciano is only about 1 hour south of Siena from A1 highway toward Rome.
The drive was beautiful...more countryside and the sun was out...it was beautiful! Upon arriving into town, I stopped at at little shop and bought some pecorino cheese, prosecca (sparkling sweet wine), and two jars of Riboletta (Tuscan soup) for my dinner that night).
As I drove into the property for Terme Sensoriali at Terme Di Chianciano, I realized this is not just one building...but it is a large area which covers a couple of blocks. It's nothing too fancy, but it includes the offices for doctors as well. The Terme's afterall are about healing, not just pampering. Many people will visit the doctor there, get a "prescription" of the water they should take and how often they should take it and then they visitor goes to the thermal pools.
Upon arriving I met the spa director Barbara Rossi, a very nice woman who explained the Terme Sensoriali (the pampering spa part of the whole operation) was new...just opened this past October. The spa offers 20 different types of treatments organized by naturopathy experts; the treatments include: energizing and relaxing aromatherapy, turkish bath, chromotherapy, musictherapy, cave of the spring, etruscan sauna, salt bath, and a handful more!
A word about the waters...(and each Terme has a different type of healing water)
The different spa waters of Terme di Chianciano affect the body according to the varying ways in which they are used for treatment: the Acqua Santa and Acqua Fucoli come directly from the springs in the long-established parks and are beneficial to the liver and gastrointestinal apparatus. Acqua Santissima is utilized for inhalations, aerosol and insufflations, for all age groups, to treat problems of the upper respiratory tract while Acqua Sillene is used for mud baths, thermal baths and cosmetics.
Actually it's a little confusing, until you just go and visit one of these amazing places. I had a great experience. I took only a bathing suite...slippers and a robe are provided for each visitor. I put the rest of my things in a locker and then started my little adventure. I followed the guide of directions for "detoxifying" and these are the steps it said to take: First I walked through a path barefoot with soft rocks and alternating hot/cold shower water to help increase my circulation. Then, I went into a sulphur pool, which was very warm and relaxing. After about 30 minutes, I went into the chromotherapy warm pool, with neon color lights, which was very relaxing, then I went into a bagno turco (steam room) . My guide then said to rest in the relaxing area which is an egg shaped area that simulates being in the womb. I walked in and thought it was nothing special, but the sound in the egg was relaxing and interesting. So I sat down and no kidding, 2 minutes later I passed out! I woke up 20 minutes later and was so surprised how the "womb" had such an effect on my. Then I went to the mud room where everyone in there looked like little green people everywhere...we all slathering healing mud all over our bodies and faces...I got a big chunk of mud in my hair that just wouldn't come out...oh well. Everybody else is there with a companion...but there I sat by my green self, waiting for the 10 minutes to be over so I can wash off.
Then I had a lovely spa treatment scheduled up stairs from the pools, but I was running a bit late because I couldn't wash all of the mud off...so I ran up stairs to meet Esperanza -- a little Spanish woman in her 50's, there to give me a sugar body scrub and massage. Another little awkward moment that I got over very quickly... she spoke no English and so she said to me in Italian "take off all over your clothes and lay on the bed."...now I wanted to confirm that's what she said because I didn't want an awkward moment of me taking all of my clothes off, and then finding out that's not what she asked me to do. So I confirmed my clothing option "Niente" (nothing), she said "Si, Niente" (yes, nothing), I said, "va bene, niente" (okay, nothing)...well, I'm glad that's clear as mud now.
So there I lay, naked and cold. Esperanza gave me a great sugar body scrub made with ingredients from the waters. I must tell you that Esperanze included my (incredibly shrinking) boobs in the scrub and massage...different experience (never had my boobs massaged), but a good experience indeed...even if it was by lil' old Esperanza and not a Francesco, Giuseppe or some other fantasy like that. Either way, the scrub was relaxing, then while I wait and lay there, Esperanza filled a big bath tub and then asked me to get up and get in...then she poured some honey-like texture into the bathtub and watched me lounge there, pretty much lost in the bubbles at this point. After 10 minutes, I got out and then she gave me a massage with a body butter. Between the healing waters, then the exfoliation and hydration...my skin felt so good after the treatment.
I didn't want to leave the Terme, but it was getting late and I wanted to get home to eat dinner. As I drove home I realized Blu was low on fuel, but it was late so there were gas stations, but no service (I have been utilizing full service in Italy because it is typical/standard), but since it was late, I would have to do it myself...simple thing getting gas, but in Italy...not so much. Anyway, I did figure it out, but just my luck, the pump wasn't working, so here I am thinking "okay, is this my problem or the pump?" This is when I noticed a police car parked a few hundred feet away. Finally after much frustration (plus I had to pee so bad!), I walked over to the policeman and explained the situation and asked for help. Very nice fella...tried to do it for me, but then realized it was the pump, not me...after a little bit of Italian cursing under his breath, he finally figured it out. I said to him in choppy Italian "Thank you, I don't know what I would have done if you weren't here" (this is my damsel in distress voice...truly though, Blu was on empty, my bladder was on full and I needed fuel desperately to get home). So he asked me my name and where I was from and then introduced himself as "Leo", but prononced L-ay-o. He was a doll. I thought about doing something illegal just for the satisfaction of further conversation and a possible frisking, but I really wanted to get home to enjoy my Riboletta.
venerdì 6 aprile 2007
Recipe for the Perfect Cookie
A couple of nights ago, I was taking a late walk with a friend around Siena. It was about midnight and we decided to take my favorite short cut through a tiny street -- I love this route because it passes by my favorite bakery. Of course it was late and the bakery wouldn't be open, but it's still a great little path where you drift through, feet just above the ground as your nose is led by the smell of baking cookies for the next day.
Passing by the window of the bakery...I saw the best, most delightful thing yet since being in Siena!
As I looked in the window, I could see 3 older men...probably in their 60's...they were in the wayyy back of this tiny bakery in the kitchen...
They had their shirts off!...working hard...Santa Claus bellies out and covered in flour...one actually had a cigar in his mouth! So this is how my favorite cookie -- Baci di dalma (kiss of the lady/dame), is made! (Sidenote: as soon as I typed "Baci di Dalma"...I ran downstairs, took a quick right, went down my favorite path and went to the bakery to buy cookies!)
I stood there, looking into the window, probably for a good 5 minutes...This was the greatest discovery...sort of like finding the oompa loompas making chocolate in Willy Wonka's chocolate Factory...but better! Hot from the heat of the ovens, these 3 fellas, working so hard, baking cookies and pastries at midnight, with bellies abound, dusted with flour...well, I wish all of you could have discovered this little secret with me...I just smiled and giggled a bit...I didn't want leave, but just stay there and watch them work, concentrate and chat. I must go by the bakery again at midnight soon...
Passing by the window of the bakery...I saw the best, most delightful thing yet since being in Siena!
As I looked in the window, I could see 3 older men...probably in their 60's...they were in the wayyy back of this tiny bakery in the kitchen...
They had their shirts off!...working hard...Santa Claus bellies out and covered in flour...one actually had a cigar in his mouth! So this is how my favorite cookie -- Baci di dalma (kiss of the lady/dame), is made! (Sidenote: as soon as I typed "Baci di Dalma"...I ran downstairs, took a quick right, went down my favorite path and went to the bakery to buy cookies!)
I stood there, looking into the window, probably for a good 5 minutes...This was the greatest discovery...sort of like finding the oompa loompas making chocolate in Willy Wonka's chocolate Factory...but better! Hot from the heat of the ovens, these 3 fellas, working so hard, baking cookies and pastries at midnight, with bellies abound, dusted with flour...well, I wish all of you could have discovered this little secret with me...I just smiled and giggled a bit...I didn't want leave, but just stay there and watch them work, concentrate and chat. I must go by the bakery again at midnight soon...
Plans after Italy
I have received a handful of emails from friends and family asking and wondering about my plans after Italy. Well, my friends, that's a damn good question.
Okay, seriously, I have many thoughts and options...this is a good thing. Some have even asked if I am returning to Santa Barbara. Well, my initial thought and answer to that is "Of course I am Silly, where else would I go or where else would I want to be?" My life is in Santa Barbara, many of my friends are there and SB is where I want to work and live. SB is my favorite place in the whole world:) I have such wonderful, insightful and intuitive friends...I'm wondering if something in my words tells you that I will be elsewhere?
I ask this because I want to go back to SB...chances are that's exactly what will happen, but I have so many thoughts running through my head about what I could do. So...the thing is...well, money of course...I have sold everything, spent everything and have no job...I quickly need to find a job when I get home, but the good option is that because I was laid off my job several months ago, I can still use my unemployment to help me get started again. I'm resourceful too...I think you all know this:)
I was thinking perhaps I would go to Maui for a few months to work in a spa as an esthetician. I did have a phone interview with Mandara Spa about 3 weeks ago. I also got an esthetician job offer at a new spa in Napa which specializes in Italian treatments...the truth is though, I went to Napa just before I left for Italy and I wasn't that thrilled about the area. My brother RJ and his fiance Daniella have said I can stay with them in Austin for awhile...despite the gruelling Texas summers, I would love to do this...but I can't interview in SB easily and I can't get unemployment if I leave the state. My mom also said I can stay with her in Wyoming for a few months if I want...would love to...but same issue...not easy to apply to jobs in SB this way.
A couple of spas here in Italy said they might hire me, but I don't want to do that. Lastly I have become very passionate about and motivated to learn more Italian. So I have connected with SBCC about being a student and studying abroad in Italy starting this summer or fall.
Honestly...and I know this will surprise you about me....but...I have a bigger plan. I won't go into too much detail, but since being here in Italy I have been inspired by the women I have met who are travelling like myself, experiencing life, working out life and just seeking a sort of therapy. I would like to start a business promoting women doing this; I have good business model in my mind, good contacts and resources and have had a couple of great conversations with people here in Italy that I would partner with to make this happen. This "little plan" of mine is very ideal of course...I would get to be in Tuscany and SB and I would be doing something that brings me so much joy. This is in the very, very beginning stages of what I am thinking and I don't know where I will go from here...I mean, let's be real...I am broke, no savings, little income... For now I am just trying to enjoy the rest of my time here.
So...I hope that answers your questions regarding "Now what?" I would appreciate counsel, advice and prayers on this of course!
Okay, seriously, I have many thoughts and options...this is a good thing. Some have even asked if I am returning to Santa Barbara. Well, my initial thought and answer to that is "Of course I am Silly, where else would I go or where else would I want to be?" My life is in Santa Barbara, many of my friends are there and SB is where I want to work and live. SB is my favorite place in the whole world:) I have such wonderful, insightful and intuitive friends...I'm wondering if something in my words tells you that I will be elsewhere?
I ask this because I want to go back to SB...chances are that's exactly what will happen, but I have so many thoughts running through my head about what I could do. So...the thing is...well, money of course...I have sold everything, spent everything and have no job...I quickly need to find a job when I get home, but the good option is that because I was laid off my job several months ago, I can still use my unemployment to help me get started again. I'm resourceful too...I think you all know this:)
I was thinking perhaps I would go to Maui for a few months to work in a spa as an esthetician. I did have a phone interview with Mandara Spa about 3 weeks ago. I also got an esthetician job offer at a new spa in Napa which specializes in Italian treatments...the truth is though, I went to Napa just before I left for Italy and I wasn't that thrilled about the area. My brother RJ and his fiance Daniella have said I can stay with them in Austin for awhile...despite the gruelling Texas summers, I would love to do this...but I can't interview in SB easily and I can't get unemployment if I leave the state. My mom also said I can stay with her in Wyoming for a few months if I want...would love to...but same issue...not easy to apply to jobs in SB this way.
A couple of spas here in Italy said they might hire me, but I don't want to do that. Lastly I have become very passionate about and motivated to learn more Italian. So I have connected with SBCC about being a student and studying abroad in Italy starting this summer or fall.
Honestly...and I know this will surprise you about me....but...I have a bigger plan. I won't go into too much detail, but since being here in Italy I have been inspired by the women I have met who are travelling like myself, experiencing life, working out life and just seeking a sort of therapy. I would like to start a business promoting women doing this; I have good business model in my mind, good contacts and resources and have had a couple of great conversations with people here in Italy that I would partner with to make this happen. This "little plan" of mine is very ideal of course...I would get to be in Tuscany and SB and I would be doing something that brings me so much joy. This is in the very, very beginning stages of what I am thinking and I don't know where I will go from here...I mean, let's be real...I am broke, no savings, little income... For now I am just trying to enjoy the rest of my time here.
So...I hope that answers your questions regarding "Now what?" I would appreciate counsel, advice and prayers on this of course!
Stefano the Massage Therapist
I debated whether or not I should blog about my massage experience because it could be a "touchy" subject, but after emailing my friends about the story, I heard that it made all of them laugh and so...what the heck, my blog is about everything that is happening in Italy, so I will tell the story of Stefano the massage therapist.
While visiting a hotel and spa recently, I scheduled a massage; this would be my first massage in Italy and not only did I really need it, I was excited and interested to see the differences between massages in Italy and America.
Where was I...oh yes...so lounging in my robe, I waited for the massage to start...and in walks Stefano -- a light-tanned, Italian with short, curly blonde hair. I would say he was 40 something and in good shape, wearing a type of white uniform. First impression, Stefano was extremely professional which made me relax and at ease...after all this would be the first time I received a massage by a male massuese. Just before the massage started he had me pick a scent for the aroma therapy, he asked if I wanted music on in the background and then he explained each massage technique he would be doing....sounded great to me....boy was I in for an even more pleasant surprise.
Back home, when a massage is about to begin, the therapist explains how to lay on the table, then leaves the room for the client to get undressed and slip under a blanket, only to return a couple of minutes later asking, "may I come in...are you ready?" My experience with Stefano was slightly different...he asked me to take off my robe (at this point I'm thinking "Isn't this when you are supposed to leave for a few minutes?"), but...instead he lifted the blanket up so that he could not see me undress, but he was still in the room...okay....so, off goes the robe and I lay on the bed.
First thing I noticed that was also different from American massages (the ones I have had), is that Stefano used a LOT of massage oil...and it was hot oil...did I mention a LOT of hot oil...okay, this felt incredible. He started massaging my back for a bit....ahhhhhhh...I am now starting to really relax and sink into the massage table. Then...wait...I think he just crawled onto the massage table...yep...sure enough...apparently he couldn't get to the spot he needed to on my spine so he got on the massage table, straddled my butt and sat lightly while he massaged and popped my back into place....okay...that was interesting...but actually very helpful to my back...by the way...at this point I am starting to feel like this could be an SNL skit or a Seinfeld episode! Oh God....hilarious....all the while I am concentrating on relaxing and not giggling because it truly was a great massage, but yet...funny.
Moving down from my back to my butt, he fully massaged my whole butt with his forearms... a much needed area to be massaged actually. Then Stefano lifts each of my legs, separately to stretch them...but this is when he put my leg on shoulder to stretch and massage...at this point I feel his skin on the heal of my foot...I realize he is no longer wearing that white shirt...perhaps he got really hot (temperature-wise) while massaging...anyway...that was interesting...but again, the stretch was so therapeutic (hold the jokes please).
The massage continued...quitely lovely...an exfoliating foot massage...then the best part of all...Stefano poured hot oil into my hair, gave me a scalp massage and then...brushed my hair....okay, are you booking your ticket yet to Positano for a massage with Stefano???!!! Lastly...he did some great stretching and popping techniques with my neck -- wowsers.
And that my friends is the story of Stefano the massage therapist (former physical therapist), who gave me the best massage I have ever had.
While visiting a hotel and spa recently, I scheduled a massage; this would be my first massage in Italy and not only did I really need it, I was excited and interested to see the differences between massages in Italy and America.
Where was I...oh yes...so lounging in my robe, I waited for the massage to start...and in walks Stefano -- a light-tanned, Italian with short, curly blonde hair. I would say he was 40 something and in good shape, wearing a type of white uniform. First impression, Stefano was extremely professional which made me relax and at ease...after all this would be the first time I received a massage by a male massuese. Just before the massage started he had me pick a scent for the aroma therapy, he asked if I wanted music on in the background and then he explained each massage technique he would be doing....sounded great to me....boy was I in for an even more pleasant surprise.
Back home, when a massage is about to begin, the therapist explains how to lay on the table, then leaves the room for the client to get undressed and slip under a blanket, only to return a couple of minutes later asking, "may I come in...are you ready?" My experience with Stefano was slightly different...he asked me to take off my robe (at this point I'm thinking "Isn't this when you are supposed to leave for a few minutes?"), but...instead he lifted the blanket up so that he could not see me undress, but he was still in the room...okay....so, off goes the robe and I lay on the bed.
First thing I noticed that was also different from American massages (the ones I have had), is that Stefano used a LOT of massage oil...and it was hot oil...did I mention a LOT of hot oil...okay, this felt incredible. He started massaging my back for a bit....ahhhhhhh...I am now starting to really relax and sink into the massage table. Then...wait...I think he just crawled onto the massage table...yep...sure enough...apparently he couldn't get to the spot he needed to on my spine so he got on the massage table, straddled my butt and sat lightly while he massaged and popped my back into place....okay...that was interesting...but actually very helpful to my back...by the way...at this point I am starting to feel like this could be an SNL skit or a Seinfeld episode! Oh God....hilarious....all the while I am concentrating on relaxing and not giggling because it truly was a great massage, but yet...funny.
Moving down from my back to my butt, he fully massaged my whole butt with his forearms... a much needed area to be massaged actually. Then Stefano lifts each of my legs, separately to stretch them...but this is when he put my leg on shoulder to stretch and massage...at this point I feel his skin on the heal of my foot...I realize he is no longer wearing that white shirt...perhaps he got really hot (temperature-wise) while massaging...anyway...that was interesting...but again, the stretch was so therapeutic (hold the jokes please).
The massage continued...quitely lovely...an exfoliating foot massage...then the best part of all...Stefano poured hot oil into my hair, gave me a scalp massage and then...brushed my hair....okay, are you booking your ticket yet to Positano for a massage with Stefano???!!! Lastly...he did some great stretching and popping techniques with my neck -- wowsers.
And that my friends is the story of Stefano the massage therapist (former physical therapist), who gave me the best massage I have ever had.
giovedì 5 aprile 2007
My Incredibly Shrinking Boobs
I feel it necessary to tell you about my shrinking boobs because...well, it wouldn't be happening if I weren't in Italy and this blog is about everything happening in Italy!
So...about a week ago, hopping out of the shower (and yes, I really hopped because I am still beyond ecstatic about my hot showers!)...anyway, got out and noticed that my boobs had shrunk!...and not just gotten smaller, but dropped and deflated! I stood there in disbelief, totally bummed and confused...I wondered what the hell was wrong!?...was this a side effect of too much of the "P's"...that is pasta, pizza, paninos??? A side effect of too much gelato or espresso??
Well, all I know is that I miss my perky, good-sized, B cup boobs...okay, so I didn't have volumptuos breasts, but...they were perfect for me! And because I was genuinely concerned because they weren't just smaller, but deflated, I had to seek the wisdom of all of my medical-minded friends. I emailed Julia the acupuncturist, Cathy the herbalist, Amy the naturopath doc and Jesse the plastic surgeon.
It turns out this phenomenon IS caused by food -- not what I am eating, but what I am not eating. I have lost weight, but only about 5 pounds (sidenote: Eating as much pasta as I want and cookies is doable because I walk everywhere!), but I am not eating enough things that have affect on my hormones -- meats, soy...which effect my boob size I guess...that's how I understand it I guess.
So, there you have it, I am happy to share this bit of info with you...
Desperately seeking perky boobs,
Melissa
So...about a week ago, hopping out of the shower (and yes, I really hopped because I am still beyond ecstatic about my hot showers!)...anyway, got out and noticed that my boobs had shrunk!...and not just gotten smaller, but dropped and deflated! I stood there in disbelief, totally bummed and confused...I wondered what the hell was wrong!?...was this a side effect of too much of the "P's"...that is pasta, pizza, paninos??? A side effect of too much gelato or espresso??
Well, all I know is that I miss my perky, good-sized, B cup boobs...okay, so I didn't have volumptuos breasts, but...they were perfect for me! And because I was genuinely concerned because they weren't just smaller, but deflated, I had to seek the wisdom of all of my medical-minded friends. I emailed Julia the acupuncturist, Cathy the herbalist, Amy the naturopath doc and Jesse the plastic surgeon.
It turns out this phenomenon IS caused by food -- not what I am eating, but what I am not eating. I have lost weight, but only about 5 pounds (sidenote: Eating as much pasta as I want and cookies is doable because I walk everywhere!), but I am not eating enough things that have affect on my hormones -- meats, soy...which effect my boob size I guess...that's how I understand it I guess.
So, there you have it, I am happy to share this bit of info with you...
Desperately seeking perky boobs,
Melissa
Missing the Simple Things!
I have been in Tuscany now for 7 weeks and it is flying by! I am having the time of my life...truly, truly, truly! I think I will probably be one of those moms (if I have kids!) that tells the same stories over and over for years to my children and they will say "Ah mom, not this story again!"...or they will let me tell my story again and finish my sentences!
Just in the past day though, I have really been missing some things...simple things, but I am daydreaming about them! Here's what I miss and thoughts on things I appreciate...
Just in the past day though, I have really been missing some things...simple things, but I am daydreaming about them! Here's what I miss and thoughts on things I appreciate...
- Reading my favorite newspaper, The Independent. I especially miss the horoscopes (which I can read online and have been, but it's not the same.)
- Convenience
- Driving my car
- Hot Dogs at Surf Dog in Carpinteria (and Bill's sarcasm:)
- Sunshine
- Friends
- Mia (dog)
- Free parking
- Less expensive gas
- Working and making/having money
- Visits to Daily Grind
- Beach
- Deep conversations in English
- American music (my ipod has stopped working)
- American TV
- Calling my friends and family anytime (without worrying about time difference)
- Going to see a movie
- Being able to read and understand signs
- Regular store hours
- Diet Coke (they only have Coca Cola light here)
- Sushi
- Turkey Burgers
- The Jasmine this time of year
In an ideal world, I would split my time between SB and Tuscany... I do have some ideas:)...until then, I will relish the remainder of my time here and look forward to going back home just in time for the blooming Jacaranda trees!
domenica 1 aprile 2007
Positano & Lemons
This past weekend I took a road trip to amazing Positano! Positano is about 6 hours South from Siena towards Rome and Naples. As I am driving on the A1 highway, I am wondering why the hell I chose this road trip to be my first road trip....it is the furthest and most complicated. Well, I can say that I feel like a master driver now in Italy...6 hours in Blu (my Panda Fiat) on the highway and then along the windy, narrow cliff roads...I'm not quite sure how the tour buses passed me or any other cars on these roads. Each time I saw them coming, I had to stop, hold my breath and pray to God they didn't scratch my little Blu rental...and then on I went around the tight hair-pin curves. Now thinking back...I think my angel took over because I just jetted through like I knew what I was doing through these little seaside villages...I had no idea where I was going, but I just followed my instinct (I hate maps).
As I drive along the Almalfi Coast I am in awe...the whole time looking around and just saying "Oh my God, Oh my God." The houses...the entire town/village hang on the cliffs overlooking the Tirreno Sea. It was a bit warmer than Tuscany (normally this time of year it's much warmer, but like Siena, they are experiencing a late cold season). The water is a turquoise blue color and there are fruit stands along the way...the Lemons are GIGANTIC and about the size of a volleyball. I bought one and thought I could make Lemonade...a couple of gallons with the Lemon I bought!
I seriously could not believe this mystical sort of place. My main purpose for going to Positano was to visit a spa and when I realized just how far Positano was from Tuscany, I proposed to the spa that I also stay in the hotel. I arrived at the hotel and spa, Albergo le Sirenuse, late Friday afternoon...take a look through the website and you'll know why I am searching for words to describe this place. This is the most beautiful and quaint hotel...the gentlemen that helped me -- Giuseppe, Roberto, and Mauro, were all so helpful, professional and friendly. Mauro took me to my room with a view of the sea...as we walked through my room and he pointed out various things I just nodded my head in a friendly way, showing that I was very impressed and pleased with everything...but inside I was screaming "This is amazing...am I dreaming...have I died and gone to heaven...???" I seriously was giggly and giddy and couldn't wait until Mauro left just so I could laugh in delight at my staying in this amazing place. I had a hot tub in my bathroom and several spa products made especially for the hotel. The room, the view...everything was amazing. I have video and photos to show soon, but for now, you can see photos on the website at www.sirenuse.it
After getting settled, I walked around this quaint beachy town for a while. I noticed a very familiar, lovely smell...jasmine was in bloom and the blossoms of the lemon trees everywhere. This aroma is one of my favorite things about Santa Barbara and I loved having this memory of SB in Positano.
For the first time in Italy, I saw a LOT of things I wished I could buy, but...instead I just walked around and took photos and notes. It was Good Friday, so the churches in town lit small candles which lined the little streets. Then I heard chanting...prayer chanting and around the corner discovered a group of Catholics/Christians walking through the streets saying a prayer...the sound of their (about 20 people) prayer chanting echoed through the narrow streets. I followed them for awhile, staying in the back...it was nearly dark, hearing them and following them gave me good vibes and chills.
That night I had dinner in the restaurant in the hotel...it was nice...and honestly I enjoyed this unique dining experience, but I was out of my comfort zone. It was a "table for one please".... the restaurant was so beautiful and my guess is that everyone dining there was paying the $600/night and I was most likely the only travel writer...on a budget. I had four waiters that replaced my napkin probably four times...anyway, the restaurant had warm, dim lighting with little white lights and lemon trees everywhere. I had a quiet spot behind a lemon tree with a great view of the chefs with white uniforms and hats working in the kitchen (there was a big window so that guests could watch them). I ordered first a prosecco (sparkling wine) and had a taste of the local bread with olive oil. For my meal, I had Ziti con Pomodorini melanzane e ricotta (cherry tomato, pasta, ricotta cheese). For dessert I had locally made lemon sorbet and then an espresso.
That night I took a lovely soak in my "hot tub" in the room...which made up for allllll of those showers with Tonto! Then I drifted off and fell asleep with the balcony doors open so that I could hear the waves crash when I fell asleep and again when I woke up.
The next morning I had a one hour massage at the hotel Spa with a massage therapist named Stefano -- a light-tanned, late 30-something Italian with short curly blonde hair. First let me say that I have had many massages...all good...many wonderful...but...this massage was the best massage I have ever experienced. (the 4-handed lomi lomi in Kaui comes close though:). My treatment started with an "aroma journey"...this is when I get to choose my scent for the massage oil. This may sound familiar...the spa uses Aveda products and the aroma journey is an Aveda concept. Based on the aroma I chose, Stefano said my "air element" was not balanced which meant that "I had too much input in my brain and I had too many things on my mind"....hmmmm...ya, think? This made complete sense of course. Stefano also said not being balanced with this element would make my skin dry. Moving along...well...this story will be so much easier (and more fun) to tell you in person...but let me say in short, Stefano was so intuitive with my aches and tension...he massaged, stretched my limbs and even cracked my back and neck. Before he started the massage, he explained what he would be doing which was good because when he massaged my back, he actually climbed on the bed, straddled over me and then proceded to manipulate my spine. Leg and hip stretches were also a surprise -- one at a time, he put my legs on his shoulder and stretched and massaged. Could this get any better?.... yes, indeed and in fact it did...he pour hot oil into my scalp and massaged my scalp and then actually brushed my hair!....okay, this is when I really thought I was dreaming. This is when he also stretched my neck using a small towel as a way to rock my head back and forth. So much detail...but I can't go on and on. Stefano was extremely professional and I found out that he worked in physical therapy before which explained his wondrous technique.
After the massage I enjoyed the Bagno Turco (steam room) and sauna. Then I took a walk on the beach and a short hike through the hills. It was such a dreamy little trip, but it was also more expensive than I anticipated! I paid (approximately in dollars): $100 in fuel round trip, $50 in highway tolls, $50 on dinner...everything was so expensive -- $10 for an espresso, $10 for a bottled water and I only got a small dinner, $50 in tips for massage and hotel staff). At the same time, I got to review the best hotel (actual cost is about $500/night) I have ever seen and get a very healing and memorable massage (actual cost $150).
Oh...and one other thing...I spoke Italian most of the time in Positano! My Italian needs a lot of work, but there was something about being in this place where most of the tourists where Americans who didn't know any Italian...well, it made me more relaxed I guess to give it a try. I surprised my self by what I was saying and remembering! I decided it was time to leave Positano and as I walked back to the hotel, I smelled something baking...something lemony...I poked my head into a door off the walk way and met a nice baker named Carmene...I made an acquaintance and now when I go back to Positano, perhaps he can be my tour guide and I can practice my conversation Italian with him...his English is as good (or not-so-good) as my Italian, so I feel more relaxed in messing up!
Tomorrow I head to Chianciano Terme...another spa about 2 hours from Siena...can't wait!
As I drive along the Almalfi Coast I am in awe...the whole time looking around and just saying "Oh my God, Oh my God." The houses...the entire town/village hang on the cliffs overlooking the Tirreno Sea. It was a bit warmer than Tuscany (normally this time of year it's much warmer, but like Siena, they are experiencing a late cold season). The water is a turquoise blue color and there are fruit stands along the way...the Lemons are GIGANTIC and about the size of a volleyball. I bought one and thought I could make Lemonade...a couple of gallons with the Lemon I bought!
I seriously could not believe this mystical sort of place. My main purpose for going to Positano was to visit a spa and when I realized just how far Positano was from Tuscany, I proposed to the spa that I also stay in the hotel. I arrived at the hotel and spa, Albergo le Sirenuse, late Friday afternoon...take a look through the website and you'll know why I am searching for words to describe this place. This is the most beautiful and quaint hotel...the gentlemen that helped me -- Giuseppe, Roberto, and Mauro, were all so helpful, professional and friendly. Mauro took me to my room with a view of the sea...as we walked through my room and he pointed out various things I just nodded my head in a friendly way, showing that I was very impressed and pleased with everything...but inside I was screaming "This is amazing...am I dreaming...have I died and gone to heaven...???" I seriously was giggly and giddy and couldn't wait until Mauro left just so I could laugh in delight at my staying in this amazing place. I had a hot tub in my bathroom and several spa products made especially for the hotel. The room, the view...everything was amazing. I have video and photos to show soon, but for now, you can see photos on the website at www.sirenuse.it
After getting settled, I walked around this quaint beachy town for a while. I noticed a very familiar, lovely smell...jasmine was in bloom and the blossoms of the lemon trees everywhere. This aroma is one of my favorite things about Santa Barbara and I loved having this memory of SB in Positano.
For the first time in Italy, I saw a LOT of things I wished I could buy, but...instead I just walked around and took photos and notes. It was Good Friday, so the churches in town lit small candles which lined the little streets. Then I heard chanting...prayer chanting and around the corner discovered a group of Catholics/Christians walking through the streets saying a prayer...the sound of their (about 20 people) prayer chanting echoed through the narrow streets. I followed them for awhile, staying in the back...it was nearly dark, hearing them and following them gave me good vibes and chills.
That night I had dinner in the restaurant in the hotel...it was nice...and honestly I enjoyed this unique dining experience, but I was out of my comfort zone. It was a "table for one please".... the restaurant was so beautiful and my guess is that everyone dining there was paying the $600/night and I was most likely the only travel writer...on a budget. I had four waiters that replaced my napkin probably four times...anyway, the restaurant had warm, dim lighting with little white lights and lemon trees everywhere. I had a quiet spot behind a lemon tree with a great view of the chefs with white uniforms and hats working in the kitchen (there was a big window so that guests could watch them). I ordered first a prosecco (sparkling wine) and had a taste of the local bread with olive oil. For my meal, I had Ziti con Pomodorini melanzane e ricotta (cherry tomato, pasta, ricotta cheese). For dessert I had locally made lemon sorbet and then an espresso.
That night I took a lovely soak in my "hot tub" in the room...which made up for allllll of those showers with Tonto! Then I drifted off and fell asleep with the balcony doors open so that I could hear the waves crash when I fell asleep and again when I woke up.
The next morning I had a one hour massage at the hotel Spa with a massage therapist named Stefano -- a light-tanned, late 30-something Italian with short curly blonde hair. First let me say that I have had many massages...all good...many wonderful...but...this massage was the best massage I have ever experienced. (the 4-handed lomi lomi in Kaui comes close though:). My treatment started with an "aroma journey"...this is when I get to choose my scent for the massage oil. This may sound familiar...the spa uses Aveda products and the aroma journey is an Aveda concept. Based on the aroma I chose, Stefano said my "air element" was not balanced which meant that "I had too much input in my brain and I had too many things on my mind"....hmmmm...ya, think? This made complete sense of course. Stefano also said not being balanced with this element would make my skin dry. Moving along...well...this story will be so much easier (and more fun) to tell you in person...but let me say in short, Stefano was so intuitive with my aches and tension...he massaged, stretched my limbs and even cracked my back and neck. Before he started the massage, he explained what he would be doing which was good because when he massaged my back, he actually climbed on the bed, straddled over me and then proceded to manipulate my spine. Leg and hip stretches were also a surprise -- one at a time, he put my legs on his shoulder and stretched and massaged. Could this get any better?.... yes, indeed and in fact it did...he pour hot oil into my scalp and massaged my scalp and then actually brushed my hair!....okay, this is when I really thought I was dreaming. This is when he also stretched my neck using a small towel as a way to rock my head back and forth. So much detail...but I can't go on and on. Stefano was extremely professional and I found out that he worked in physical therapy before which explained his wondrous technique.
After the massage I enjoyed the Bagno Turco (steam room) and sauna. Then I took a walk on the beach and a short hike through the hills. It was such a dreamy little trip, but it was also more expensive than I anticipated! I paid (approximately in dollars): $100 in fuel round trip, $50 in highway tolls, $50 on dinner...everything was so expensive -- $10 for an espresso, $10 for a bottled water and I only got a small dinner, $50 in tips for massage and hotel staff). At the same time, I got to review the best hotel (actual cost is about $500/night) I have ever seen and get a very healing and memorable massage (actual cost $150).
Oh...and one other thing...I spoke Italian most of the time in Positano! My Italian needs a lot of work, but there was something about being in this place where most of the tourists where Americans who didn't know any Italian...well, it made me more relaxed I guess to give it a try. I surprised my self by what I was saying and remembering! I decided it was time to leave Positano and as I walked back to the hotel, I smelled something baking...something lemony...I poked my head into a door off the walk way and met a nice baker named Carmene...I made an acquaintance and now when I go back to Positano, perhaps he can be my tour guide and I can practice my conversation Italian with him...his English is as good (or not-so-good) as my Italian, so I feel more relaxed in messing up!
Tomorrow I head to Chianciano Terme...another spa about 2 hours from Siena...can't wait!
Tuscany via Bicycle
Every Thursday Saena Iulia (the school I attended for Italian language course) takes excursions (I have been blogging about the trips to the villages). Even though I am no longer taking classes, I am still taking the weekly excursions! This past week, instead of taking a short bus ride to a nearby village, the group rented bicycles and rode for about 4 hours through the nearby hills surrounding Siena. It's beautiful outside the city gates...lots of rolling green hills. Motorists do NOT respect (or have patience) for people on bicylcles, so it was a little risky and scary riding in the city, then we reached the countryside which seemed safer. This was a great workout (going up all of those hills) and it was a foggy and slightly rainy day, so at first I was freezing, then numb from the cold! We stopped in a small village for an espresso, then away we went back to Siena!
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